In the latest Bon Appétit advice column, a reader described a scene where her dining companions flummoxed the wait staff by wanting to divide the check six ways for different amounts. She asked for advice on the best way to split a check among a group. This was the answer she got:
Unless you’re with only one other person (okay, maybe two–I’m feeling generous) or you’re 17 years old and out with a group of friends at a local chain, splitting a check is lame. […] So the next time you go out with a group of friends who want to divide the check every which way, be a thoughtful, considerate person and put the whole thing on your credit card. If they’re your friends, they’ll pay you back. If not, well, then you need new friends.
I skipped a bit there for copyright purposes, so click here if you want to read the whole thing.
This advice reeks of ostentation. Is there any wonder why foodies are viewed by most of the populace as just another silly subset of mostly-white, upper-middle class, urban culture? Who else is tired of reading how some yuppie slummed it as a cook or waiter one summer during college and now they *know* what it’s like to slave away among the bourgeoisie? More importantly, when did dining become all about the server’s experience? I don’t understand why chefs and waiters are treated by this silly clique as unassailable artisans? I’m all for being polite and respectful as a matter of habit, but why should I not ask a person to do his or her job just because some tasks are more inconvenient than others? I’m the one paying them for their time and effort anyway.
Back here in the real world, not all of us can just cover a $500+ dinner check and hope everyone in the party pays us back or eventually remembers to return the favor. Eating out at a nice restaurant is an elusive and enjoyable treat. We work hard for the money that’s going toward the (usually overpriced) meal, and all we ask in return is that the restaurant staff work equally hard at providing us with an enjoyable experience. Obviously, diners need to tell the waiter how to charge for the wine and appetizers, but how hard is it to organize a check and swipe some cards? It’s not like we’re asking her to teach the nation’s children to read.
If my party wants to split a check 10 ways over 13 different credit cards at the end of the night, then the server had better do it with a smile. I’m the customer. Simplifying the waiter’s obligations is not my job. There’s a reason it’s called a service industry. They serve me. I can’t believe I have to keep pointing this out.
It’s 2010. Splitting the check individually is the new normal. It seems like I’m the only one who carries cash anymore anyway. The foodies who dine out at posh bistros to savor the cuisine and to be seen dining at the “it” restaurant probably also stroke their egos by picking up the whole tab. But that doesn’t mean the rest of us are acting like 17 year-olds because we choose to embrace practicality over narcissism.
Tags: Dining, Foodies, Restaurants, Service
